Page 173 - 瑰丽珠宝
P. 173
BURMESE RUBY
ONE OF THE MOST FAVOURABLE ORIGINS
FOR RUBIES
Among all kinds of colored gemstones, ruby is the most expensive gem variety,
among which Mogok (Myanmar) is one of the most favourable origins for rubies. For
hundreds of years, rubies had held a supreme position in the East. The best proof of
this is the Sanskrit nicknames for rubies: Ratnaraj and Ratnanayaka, meaning ‘king
of gems‘ and ’chief of precious stones‘ respectively. Ruby‘s color is determined by the
trace element ’Cr‘, and color is the most essential factor when it comes to market value
for rubies. The most desirable rubies possess the purest vivid red or with a very slight
purple tone, known as ‘pigeon blood red’.
在各种彩色宝石之中,红宝石称得上是最昂贵的宝石品种,其中缅甸抹谷便是
红宝石最受追捧的产区之一,其中又以抹谷(Mogok)地区所产红宝石最为上
乘。几百年来,红宝石在东方一直拥有至尊无上的地位,最好的证明是梵文中
记载的红宝石别名:—个是“Ratnaraj”,另一个是“Ratnanayaka”,意
思分别为“宝石之王”和“珍贵宝石之首”。红宝石是由于含有铬元素(Cr)
而颜色呈红色的刚玉,颜色是决定红宝石价值的最关键因素。市场上最昂贵的
红宝石拥有着最颜色鲜艳纯正的红色或带有一丝极其略微偏紫的红色,被称为 PIGEON’S BLOOD
“鸽血红”。
In the international gemstone industry, the authoritative appraisal agency SSEF (Swiss
Jewelry Research Institute) and Gübelin (Gübelin Laboratory) have a strict unified
grading standard based on color and quality for the use of ‘pigeon blood red’. To be
classified as so, the rubies must be rich, saturated, and uniformly bright red, with no
distinct secondary tones (such as blue or brown), and a very subtle purple tone is
acceptable. Its three specific indicators: tone, saturation and lightness, must refer to the
authoritative appraisal institution ‘standard colorimetric stone’ for grading assessment.
Its body color should show strong fluorescence under UV irradiation. The fluorescence
is caused by the higher chromium content and the lower iron content, which makes
the ‘pigeon blood red’ gemstone seem to have energy flowing out from within.
在国际宝石业,权威鉴定机构 SSEF(瑞士珠宝研究院)和 Gübelin(古柏
林实验室)就“鸽血红”的使用有着基于颜色和质量的严格统一分级规范。 被
分级为“鸽血红”的红宝石必须具有浓郁、饱和以及均匀的正红色,没有明
显的其它辅色调(如蓝色或褐色),极微小的紫色调可以被接受。 其红色的
三个具体指标:色调、饱和度以及明暗度,必须参照权威鉴定机构“标准比
色石”进行分级评定。 其体色在紫外光的照射下应显示强荧光。 该荧光由较
高的铬含量及较低的铁含量所致,使“鸽血红”宝石呈现“内部灼红感”。
161